Honorable Consumer: CSA's and Farmer's Markets
It’s summer, which means prime time for farmer’s markets and the easiest time of year to eat local. So, this month’s blog is all about that. Or at least that was the plan. Until writer’s block got the best of me. A friend and mentor asked me, “what is the problem?” As if there was just one. There are a number of reasons why I’m struggling with this blog, and mostly, it’s just that it feels so important for our world right now. There is this desire to emphasize the extreme need for us as a humanity to shift our consumer habits, and this hope to convey the precarious state of the planet’s health (slipping through our monocropping fingers), and that doesn’t even cover the dangers of pesticides and growth hormones (jeopardizing our own health), and then of course there’s my overwhelming perfectionism wanting to deliver an informative and helpful resource to anyone curious about eating local without sounding boring, preachy, or like I’m “shoulding” on anyone. Underneath all this is the guilt I feel for not eating more local myself. Who am I to tell you where to buy your food?!
With procrastination at an all time high, I was half tempted to change the blog subject entirely. And then, inspiration struck. Or rather, I remembered the words of someone far wiser than me. Robin Wall Kimmerer, scientist and professor, wrote about the concept of the “Honorable Harvest” in her well-received and cherished book, Braiding Sweetgrass. In short, it’s the idea that we must only take from the land that which we need, and we must do so with gratitude, respect, and reciprocity, giving back in a way that replenishes what we took. The principles and details differ between cultures and ecosystems, but the practice can be collectively attributed to the Indigenous way of life that existed before the Western white man heedlessly clomped his feet on North America and claimed the land as his. I am significantly paraphrasing the sacredness of the Honorable Harvest here, and encourage everyone to go buy Kimmerer’s book to learn more. However, I wanted to present this practice and invite readers to ask themselves, “What is my participation in the harvest of the food I eat?” and “Is it honorable?” Kimmerer writes, “[W]e can think of the Honorable Harvest as a mirror by which we judge our purchases. What do we see in the mirror? A purchase worthy of the lives consumed? Dollars become a surrogate, a proxy for the harvester with hands in the earth, and they can be used in support of the Honorable Harvest- or not” (2013, p. 195). I believe where we put our money matters. Our investments create and shape the future. We vote for the kind of world we want to live in, and the kind of earth we hope to inhabit, one dollar at a time. I’m not going to tell you that you absolutely need to buy local or that shopping at the farmer’s market is the only honorable way to purchase food. But I am going to ask you, “What kind of earth are you investing in?” My hope for his article is to offer some insight that might help you answer those questions. I want to share with you how participating in CSA’s and buying from Farmer’s Markets may or may not contribute to this concept of an Honorable Harvest. And then, I’ll let you decide what kind of a consumer you want to be.
Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)
What is a CSA? Community Supported Agriculture programs are based on a production model in which consumers purchase shares of a land’s harvest in advance. The price can range from $400-$700 for a year’s worth of goods. This method is beneficial for the farmer because it gives them the money they need to purchase seeds and pay for labor ahead of time. It is beneficial for the consumer because it creates a relationship between the consumer and the provider. Depending on how big or small the farm is, the consumer might even have the opportunity to know the farmer and the workers! If you go to a grocery store and grab a bag of apples, chances are you’re not going to know who picked those apples. Being part of a CSA may allow you to become more familiar with the humans that harvest your food. This naturally amplifies gratitude within the recipient. When Kimmerer wrote about returning what you take from the land, she did hope it might encourage a replenishing of seeds and planting equal to what we take. However, I think she’d agree that offering gratitude is also a way to give back. Part of consuming honorably is recognizing the source of your food and the labor and effort it took to get it to you. When we are more familiar with the farms and people that provide us with nourishment we are more likely to find this recognition and give thanks for the gifts of the lands. Hence, CSA’s lend themselves to the concept of the Honorable Harvest.
On a practical and environmental level, there are many benefits to CSA’s. CSA’s are known for their commitment to biodiversity and healthy soils. Most members of CSA’s actively engage in the decision making process of what foods to grow and how they will be grown. Here again, we see an emphasis in participation and respect for the land. An article by the University of Colorado claimed one of the biggest benefits of CSA’s is their interest in working with the needs of the land. The article claimed, “[local] farmers tend to cater to the ecosystem they are in. They grow crops suitable for the climate and organisms to flourish in. Local farmers respect the land in this way”. They don’t force the land to grow what it doesn’t want to grow by spraying it with all kinds of chemicals. We can see how the concept of an Honorable Harvest is embedded within this CSA model. That’s not to say that CSA’s don’t have their disadvantages.
Oftentimes, the harvest will produce more than the member can consume. While it’s beautiful to receive a giant bundle of apples from your family friendly farmer, actually consuming 50 apples between four people before they all spoil may be a struggle. For this reason, CSA’s might be best suited for large households. One might argue that the excess produce is wasteful. Members receiving more than what they need is the opposite of the Honorable Harvest. Might it be better to buy a single apple if that is all you need?
There is also the drawback of having to pick up the harvest each week. If you are out of town on pick up day, you’re out of luck. Most CSA’s don’t have a second pick up date, and if you miss the date, you miss the food. That being stated, “most CSA’s” is not all CSA’s. Some offer two pick up dates and some even deliver! If you are curious about joining a CSA, here is a list to help you find a local CSA near you.
One last thing I’ll mention about CSA’s is the risk in offering your money up front. If the harvest doesn’t yield what is expected or predicted you could end up getting less than what you need. This can create fear in the consumer. However, this fear is shared between you, the farmer, and all the other members that invested in the farm. This collective fear breeds community. If the harvest falls short, everybody has to deal with the consequences. On the upside, if the harvest is overly-abundant, every one profits. This “we’re in it together” attitude is not only supportive to our well-being, but also to the earth. It acknowledges the dependency that we all have on the land. The truth is, monocropping and industrialized farming are stripping the soil of nutrients and damaging the environment. When land can no longer provide for us, when there is nothing to harvest, we will all suffer. CSA’s may have their downsides, but overall they make an effort to build a sustaining relationship with the land and with the consumer. While I’ve personally never participated in a CSA, I must admit that they seem quite honorable to me.
Farmer’s Market
If you’ve read my past blogs, I’m sure a few of you have already guessed that I’m a farmer’s market kind of gal, and yes- it is true. Guilty. I absolutely adore the farmer’s market! It might be why I love summertime the most. I pop up like a spring daisy and scour the markets from May to September, wilting with depression come fall when I begrudgingly have to return to the grocery stores. The colors, scents, sounds, and people all dance together making what I believe to be a living artistic expression of humanity. I’m simply obsessed, and if you have never been to one, please, do yourself a favor and check one out!
“Farmer’s Market” is quite a broad term, and the merchants can range from candle makers, farmers, bee keepers, and even milliners! And that’s not to mention the food trucks and musicians that gather around the tents to support the consuming of all things local. I admit that with such a variety of vendors some farmer’s markets can be hit or miss. It took me awhile to find the “good” ones that provided enough fruits, veggies, and breads that could get me through the week without having to go to the actual grocery store. But there are good ones out there, and buying produce from these local markets has some major benefits.
For starters, local food from the farmer’s market is going to be fresher and more nutritious. Produce can lose some of its nutrients when it is packaged and transported. Because the package and transportation of goods at the farmers market is minimal, most of the produce retains high qualities of vitamin D and other nutrients. While this is a great perk to the consumer, it doesn’t necessarily speak to the concept of the Honorable Harvest. But what does speak to the Honorable Harvest is the perk of less pollution and a smaller carbon footprint. Everything we eat has a footprint. The more packaged your food is, the bigger the footprint. At farmer’s markets most of the produce is unpackaged and everyone is encouraged to bring their own bag (I like to rotate between my many cute canvas bags and coordinate them to match my outfit). This (bringing your own bag, not matching your outfit) contributes to less waste, less pollution, and a more honorable way of consuming.
I admit that I am biased towards farmer’s markets. Not only do I use them as an occasion to harness “main character energy”, but they suit my needs as a single person householder. Oftentimes, I don’t need more than a small bundle of kale or a handful of carrots. I enjoy the task of being selective with my needs and purchasing only that which will feed me for the week. However, this can be frustrating for bigger families. And as much as I don’t want to talk about the potential downside of farmer’s markets, I suppose I must (in the name of journalism).
The two most obvious deterrents to farmer’s markets are that there is a limited variety of products, and sometimes higher prices. Some might also argue that the food is in fact not healthier or more nutritious. While I am unsure of the nutritious value of my farmer’s market apple vs. a King Soopers’ apple, I do concede that the options at the market are limited, and this is an issue for a lot of people. However, I’d like to invite the question, “Do we really need more variety?” Personally, I like eating what’s in season, and I don’t feel the need to indulge in things the land is not ready to produce. I will patiently wait throughout winter for my June figs, and I appreciate them a lot more having not had them for months on end. So while it may seem like a disadvantage to have a small selection, I do believe consuming what the land wanted to produce, what is in season, what is available, even if it is limited, is part of being an honorable consumer.
Of course, I can’t talk about consumerism without talking about privilege and cost. So, let’s hash this out. There is an ongoing debate whether or not buying local is more expensive than your average grocery store. However, more and more evidence is coming out that it is not more expensive to eat health and that this is a lie media has sold us. According to one article,
“Sadly, we have had the propaganda of packaged and processed foods shoved in our faces until we believe that cooking from bags and boxes is the best we can do with our time and our money. But it isn’t true and we are the living proof. In the last year, we have both seen our food budgets drop by a good 30 to 35 percent.”
More and more people are experimenting with eating local on a low budget and finding out that they are spending less than when they consumed food from industrialized farms.
When I go to a farmer’s market, I like to consider all the factors that influence the pricing of the food. I can’t and won’t speak for WholeFoods’ high pricing, but I do believe the prices at local farmer’s markets are a reflection of the costs needed to pay the farmer and the laborers. The true price of food should mean that everyone involved in getting the food from seed, to harvest, to market, to table received their fair share. This reminds me of Kimmerer’s question. When she asks if the purchase is worthy of the life consumed, I don’t think it’s just about eating meat. I believe she is asking, was everyone involved in the process provided for? I think asking this question is honorable. Personally, I trust local markets more than big name grocery stores, but in truth, I don’t know that we can ever be sure whether or not our money was honorably distributed. But again, I have a little more trust in small markets.
At this point, I’d like to mention that in this blog I am focusing on prices of local produce vs. industrialized produce. This is different than organic and inorganic. Customers often confuse local and organic. What I have found is that most local food is organic, but they do not have the USDA approval due to the funds and time needed to go through the approval application process. There’s also a lot of debate as to whether or not the USDA approval can be trusted. But, I digress. Back to the cost of food. (If you’re concerned about eating and buying organic, I suggest sticking to the clean 15, dirty dozen rule).
A lot of people may want to be a more honorable consumer and shop at the farmer’s market, but struggle with the affordability of it. Especially if that person is requiring any type of SNAP benefits. SNAP is a supplemental nutrition assistance program offered by the government to support people in getting their food needs met. Unfortunately, for a long time SNAP assistance was not accepted by local farmers. This, thankfully, is slowly changing. There are now resources teaching farmers and consumers alike how to use SNAP for local transactions. According to one site, “across the country, farmers market coordinating organizations have initiated SNAP-incentive programs, designed to increase the purchasing power of those using nutrition benefits at markets”. I recognize that it is a privilege to have access and funds to shop at a local farmers market. I am also hopeful with these new initiatives that more and more people will be able to afford local food.
So, while there are a few drawbacks to farmer’s markets, I do believe that they are an option for consumers who are hoping to be more mindful in their purchasing. For me, it’s not just about the low-waste (though, I do love my canvas bags). It’s about the face to face interaction. It’s about being able to ask the farmer, where is your farm? When did you plant these tomatoes? What will you have next week? It’s about building that reciprocal nature with the person that is providing me with nourishment. I look them in the eye, I happily tap my credit card, and take my bag of peaches from their dirt caked hands with gratitude for the harvester and deep respect for the land it came from, just a few miles north of me.
CSA’s and farmer markets are two types of consumerism that respect the idea of the honorable harvest. People may continue to argue over which is better, but I don’t wish to persuade anyone one way or the other (okay, maybe I’m team farmer’s market). My main objective with this blog is to show you that going to the grocery store isn’t the only option. We have no choice but to be consumers in todays society. It is a necessity for the majority of us to rely on other people for food. But we do have a choice in who we buy that food from. We have a choice in how and if we have a relationship with those people. We have a choice in whether we offer our money gladly, participating in reciprocity, or with complaint for the price. We can choose what we take from the land and how much. We can do this mindlessly or with respect. We decide if we take with gratitude or indifference. We are consumers. This is a fact. Whether or not we are honorable about it, is our choice. My hope is the same as Kimmerers. May we have the courage to, “refuse to participate in an economy that destroys the beloved earth to line the pockets of the greedy, to demand an economy that is aligned with life, not stacked against it” (2013, p. 377).
One last thing - give yourself grace wherever you are at on your consumer journey. As Kimmerer also said, “It’s easy to write that, harder to do” (p. 377). Remember that even just one trip to the farmer’s market is beneficial. Or you may try buying some apples from your neighbor. And maybe you try a CSA one year and not the next. That’s okay. Every little bit counts. As humans we are all doing the best we can. So again, permission to be where you are in your consuming habits. We are all learning the ways of Honorable Harvest, together.
By: Bridget Lavin
Nest Health Connections
Nest Health Connections is a corporate wellness company revolutionizing health and happiness in the workplace. We create holistic customized wellness programs for employers and their employees.
Sources:
Introduction
https://www.robinwallkimmerer.com/
https://milkweed.org/book/braiding-sweetgrass
Community Supported Agriculture (CSA)
https://www.nal.usda.gov/legacy/afsic/community-supported-agriculture
https://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/growingsmallfarms-csaguide/
https://www.colorado.edu/ecenter/2022/04/06/csas-fresh-food-communities-and-environment
https://www.biodynamics.com/content/community-supported-agriculture
https://www.seriouseats.com/should-you-join-a-csa-what-is-a-community-supported-agriculture-pros-and-cons
https://www.ams.usda.gov/local-food-directories/csas
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/monocropping#:~:text=Monocropping%2C%20commonly%20practiced%20in%20commercial,stands%20of%20one%20crop%20only.
https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/story/10-things-you-should-know-about-industrial-farming
Farmer’s Market
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/why-eat-local-food#5.-Eating-local-supports-your-regional-economy
https://naturalforce.com/blogs/nutrition/shopping-at-farmers-market-healthier
https://www.reference.com/world-view/disadvantages-locally-grown-food-faad1ab6412806f9
https://www.arcadiapublishing.com/Navigation/Community/Arcadia-and-THP-Blog/June-2018/Eating-Local-The-Pros-and-Cons-of-a-Divisive-Food
https://environmental-conscience.com/buying-local-pros-cons/
https://sustainablefoodcenter.org/latest/blog/what-is-the-true-cost-of-food
https://eatingrules.com/cost-effectiveness-of-local-organic/
https://www.ahealthiermichigan.org/2014/07/30/organic-vs-local-whats-the-difference/#:~:text=Many%20people%20aren't%20aware,same%20regulations%20as%20organic%20produce.
https://www.consumerreports.org/fruits-vegetables/farmers-market-produce-local-vs-organic/
https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2012/03/22/organic-101-what-usda-organic-label-means
https://www.onegreenplanet.org/vegan-food/why-you-really-shouldnt-trust-the-usda/
https://www.thekitchn.com/farmers-markets-or-csas-which-one-reigns-supreme-kitchen-throwdown-220607
https://www.healthyfoodaccess.org/launch-a-business-models-farmers-markets-csa